The jury is still out on which one will be the big winner - there are fans in both camps and perhaps that is the way it should be - with no dominant style, each of us embracing the style that feels right for us and makes us feel our best.
No doubt there is a return to a stronger silhouette for women - higher waisted trousers with wider shoulder shaping, a return to the 80's for sure.
In this video I talk through the best belt choice to make to get the most out of this higher waisted look to ensure you get the silhouette you want. I focus mainly on narrower belts but discuss the nuances of colour, texture and even buckle choice.
I hope this is helpful...
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True we maybe don't turn to our suit collection as much we used to, but there are times, places and occasions when you will need to look your elegant best. When you do you will need to accessorize with the right type of belt, no good using one of your casual styles and hoping to get away with it!
In this short video I am going to talk you through some of the options - width, leather type, permitted embellishments. Each of these is key in selecting the right style to combine with your suit. Most importantly it is not always about a black belt - even formal occasions give you some latitude to ensure you look a cut above in the style stakes.
Hopefully some useful food for thought here.
]]>When I started Elliot Rhodes back in 2003 I did so in the belief that most people did not realise how important belts were in dressing stylishly. My belief was that most people simply did not have enough belt options to properly accessorize their varying outfits. Not their fault as to be honest no one was giving them enough good options to inspire them otherwise. If your option is just another black or brown belt in the same sort of leather it is hardly motivating.
So I started out on the basis that a good belt wardrobe needed to consist of at least 8 belts to cover the various occasions and situations that one might be dressing for.
My job was to design a belt collection that would allow everyone to find at least 8 belts that would properly complement their own particular style and outfit options.
In this video I talk you through what I would consider a great starting set of 8 belts for the stylish an discerning Woman. Now this is open to discussion of course dependent on the sort of colours you wear and the lifestyle you lead...but you'll get the idea.
Choosing the right belt for any given occasion is about colour, leather type and leather finish as well as belt detail. The buckle style also plays a key part in this too.
I see too many women using a belt that is just wrong for the occasion - making do with what they have rather than making their belt really work with their outfit. The wrong leather is often an issue (a heavy duty leather suitable for jeans but worn for a more elegant occasion), not to mention the wrong colour or texture.
Anyway, this is food for thought - any questions or ideas send them my way! If you want some style advice I will do my best to help.
Cheers,
Elliot
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So I started out on the basis that a good belt wardrobe needed to consist of at least 8 belts to cover the various occasions and situations that one might be dressing for.
My job was to design a belt collection that would allow everyone to find at least 8 belts that would properly complement their own particular style and outfit options.
In this video I talk you through what I would consider a great starting set of 8 belts for the discerning man. Now this is open to discussion of course dependent on the sort of colours you wear and the lifestyle you lead...but you'll get the idea.
Choosing the right belt for any given occasion is about colour, leather type and leather finish as well as belt detail. The buckle style also plays a key part in this too.
I see too many men using a belt that is just wrong for the occasion - the wrong width is common (slim suite style belt worn with denim for example), the wrong leather too (a heavy duty leather suitable for jeans but worn with smart trousers), not to mention the wrong colour (Black belt with chinos and brown shoes...yikes).
Anyway, this is food for thought - any questions or ideas send them my way! If you want some style advice I will do my best to help.
Cheers,
Elliot
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For Gentlemen, Autumn is the perfect time to turn to the trusty feel and texture of a handwoven leather belt.
Here at Elliot Rhodes we've had a really exciting few weeks, thanks to some great stylist collaborations our belts have been spotted of late gracing the waists of some rather well known actors and musicians.
We thought we would share images with you - perfect poolside reading and good to know that you were wearing Elliot Rhodes first!
If you are into Rap music then for sure you know who Travis Scott is...if you're not then all you need to know is that he is one of the biggest Rap stars in the world! We styled this triple skull belt for him to wear at the Rolling Loud festival in Miami as part of his Astroworld costume. |
It's been hard to avoid 'Barbie' this summer...but 'Ken' (aka Ryan Gosling) in this modern iteration was thankfully more than just arm candy. Most importantly he sported our narrow Western Filigree belt to compliment his YMCA inspired cowboy look!
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Picture yourself at a sunny garden party, sipping on a refreshing Pimm’s. Now, imagine completing your summer outfit with a sweet sherbet-coloured pastel belt. From soft lemon yellows to delicate mint greens, these belts are like a scoop of sorbet for your ensemble! Pair them with a breezy white sundress or pastel-hued shorts to create an effortlessly chic look that screams summer elegance. Let your outfit melt hearts with the charming and refreshing hues of a sweet sherbet pastel belt.
Who can resist the whimsical allure of cotton candy? Now, imagine capturing that essence with a cotton candy-coloured pastel belt! These soft and dreamy belts come in shades of baby pink, pale blue, and lavender, adding a touch of sweetness to any summer outfit. Whether you're attending a garden brunch or a summer soirée, pair a cotton candy pastel belt with a flowy skirt or a tailored jumpsuit to create an enchanting and feminine look. Sugarcoat your style and let your inner princess shine through!
Summer is all about vibrant colours and fruity delights. Embrace the zest of summer with a sunny sorbet-coloured pastel belt that will add a burst of energy to your outfits! Think tangy orange, juicy watermelon, or tropical pineapple. These vibrant belts are perfect for summer parties, as they exude a playful and cheerful vibe. Pair them with a solid-coloured dress or a white blouse and denim shorts for a look that is as refreshing as a summer cocktail. Get ready to be the life of the party with a pop of sunny sorbet on your waist!
For those seeking a touch of elegance and whimsy, a delicate lavender pastel belt is the perfect choice. This enchanting hue brings a sense of calm and serenity to your summer outfits, allowing you to channel your inner dreamer. Pair it with a flowy maxi dress or a pastel-coloured romper for a look that is ethereal and romantic. The delicate lavender pastel belt will effortlessly elevate your style, making you feel like you're strolling through a field of blooming flowers on a warm summer evening.
Summer is the perfect time to experiment with playful and fun accessories, and pastel belts are a fantastic way to inject whimsy and charm into your summer outfits and parties. Whether you opt for the sweetness of sherbet, the allure of cotton candy, the vibrancy of sunny sorbet, or the elegance of delicate lavender, these pastel belts will unlock a world of vibrancy for your summer adventures.
]]>Are you a little confused when it comes to accessorizing your dresses? Fear not, for Elliot Rhodes is here to enlighten you on the art of belt-wearing with dresses. Yes, you heard that right, belt-wearing is an art form that requires years of practice and dedication (or just a quick Google search). So, let's dive into the world of belts and dresses, shall we?
First things first, let's talk about the different types of belts you can wear with a dress. There's the thin belt, the wide belt, the statement belt and within that a multitude of options to consider.
A thinner belt (We are talking belts in anything from 20-30mm in width) is perfect for a fitted dress that needs a little extra oomph.. When we mention fitted it is quite important as if you choose a thin belt with a dress that is too floaty or has too much fabric the belt will just get lost and it will lose its impact.
The thin belt is ideal for adding a colour pop whilst staying subtle. But even a classic tone will give your dress a finishing touch whilst at the same time giving you a flattering silhouette as it will sit into the narrowest part of your waist.
As for colour – if you want to go tonal with your look then a simple texture on the belt rather than a flat leather will add some contrast and definition. If your dress has a pattern pick out a tone within the pattern for a more mellow look or go for contrast for greater impact. Keep any texture on the leather a little simpler so things don’t look too busy!
A wider is great for a more relaxed dress that needs a little definition. It can help cinch in your waist and create a more flattering silhouette. By being a little wider it can also be more striking, so it is the ideal opportunity to experiment with colour and texture. I personally like contrasting textures in most cases, but for elegant occasions a smooth leather or one with a subtle texture will be the right choice.
A 40mm width belt is ideal for this look but for a real statement you can also consider an even wider belt of 60mm width or more. This depends a little on your body shape. If you have a natural waist then 40mm width will be ideal, but if you are a little straighter in shape a 60mm+ belt will really create a great illusion of a waist for you.
The big advantage of wider belts is the array of buckles you can choose to embellish them. Classic buckles are great but choosing a buckle that has some sculptural shape or detail or even one encrusted with a few crystals is a way to take even a simple outfit and make it really special for both day or eveningwear. This is where an Elliot Rhodes belt really comes to the fore!
If you're feeling bold and daring, go for a statement belt! This type of belt is all about using your belt as the centrepiece of an outfit, adding a pop of colour or texture to a simple dress. Leathers with texture, strong colours, buckles with crystals, belts with studs, handwoven belts…especially for eveningwear occasions belts like these are ideal and a great opportunity to express yourself.
Ah, the age-old question of fashion - should I match my belt with my trousers or my shoes? It's a dilemma that has plagued fashion-conscious folk for decades, and the answer may surprise you.
It's important for some to put together the picture-perfect outfit. Many of us need to dress a certain way for our work, which can only be done by carefully planning our daily outfits. Whether to match your belt with your trousers or your shoes is one of the most frequently asked questions in the world of men's fashion. Some people say that matching your belt to your shoes is the only way to go. They argue that it creates a cohesive and polished look, and that it's a timeless rule of fashion. But is that really true?
Let's consider the alternatives (yes, there are in fact 3 options!).
Matching your belt to your pants may not be as popular, but it can be just as stylish - if not more so. Think about it, when you wear a belt that matches your pants, it creates a more subtle and understated look. It draws attention to your upper body and face, rather than your lower half and avoids the risk, particularly with a paler colour belt of ‘cutting yourself in half’.
Another possibility is to forget about matching your belt to either trousers or shoes and to go in another direction – using your belt as a fun way to highlight other elements of your outfit. You can instead choose a belt that complements your shirt, your watch strap, even a bracelet, scarf or tie.
The last option is to match your belt to nothing at all – especially with denim and casual shoes like trainers you can use the belt as a colour vehicle in its own right.
Keep the colours identical when teaming your belt with your shoes as a general rule of thumb. You should choose a black belt if you're wearing black shoes (as Carl is doping below). Similarly, a brown belt goes well with a pair of brown shoes. As a result, your outfit will look harmonious and coherent because your accessories' colours will complement each other. When you want to elevate your outfit for a formal setting and wish to add a tinge of style, this rule works wonders. One note on this…Do be sure that the belt and shoe tones are a good match, they don’t need to be completely identical, but they need to be a similar tone. A different texture is absolutely fine.
On the other hand, pairing your belt with your pants could create a subtle, sophisticated impression (The photo below shows Carl wearing a navy belt to go with his Navy suit). This is particularly true if your outfit is monochrome, like a suit or a set of suit trousers and a shirt. You can elongate your silhouette by creating a fluid impression by matching your belt to your pants. This look can be either casual or formal – it will work for either occasion. This is a look that is a little different and may seem more risky, but it really does pay off in the style stakes. Don’t worry if the belt/trouser match is not identical, just make sure it lives in the same colour palette.
You need to be a little more confident to try this – and it really is not for formal attire. But when you feel like branching out and doing things differently, this is a great way to go. As the colour you are matching up to already forms part of your outfit you know the tones work. The belt just notches it up a level. Think black jeans with a grey shirt and grey belt. Or the same black jeans with a purple shirt and then a purple belt. Don’t get bent out of shape trying to get a perfect colour match – in reality, you want the tones to work, being too ‘matchy matchy’ may look contrived. See how Carl has paired the denim insert in his belt with his shirt and how the Grey tone is a tonal match to his Dark grey jeans.
Again, for non-formal occasions this can be a great option. This generally works best with stronger colours where there is a point to doing this. Imagine white trainers, jeans and a blue polo shirt worn with a red or orange belt. This is a particularly good option in summer where colour comes to the fore. Equally works well for those who have the confidence to colour clash – using tones from a similar colour palette and throwing them all together…imaging a citrus mix of Green, yellow and orange for example. See the red belt contrasting sharply on the black/white outfit, or how Justin uses his belt to add to the plethora of blue tones he is wearing.
In conclusion, of course, there are some situations where you'll want to stick to the traditional rule of matching your belt to your shoes, but I would say that the option of matching with trousers is equally attractive. If you're wearing a suit, for example, it's best to keep things classic and go with a belt that matches your shoes. The same goes for more formal occasions, like a wedding or job interview. But for everyday wear, don't be afraid to mix things up a bit. Experiment with different belt and pant combinations and see what works best for you. Who knows you may just discover a new favourite look.
In the end, the choice is yours. Whether you opt for the classic belt and shoe match, the more contemporary belt and pants match, or one of the other suggestons the most important thing is that you feel confident and comfortable in your outfit. So go ahead, break the rules a little - you might just be surprised by how great you look.
And don’t forget, at Elliot Rhodes this is what we do all day, so ask us for help and guidance – I guarantee we will find you the perfect belt!
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Style is always a good starting point, a simple, visual way of expressing change. Over the next weeks I'll introduce a few belt styles (both old & new) that might just help you on your way to creating the new, improved 2023 version of you!
This week I am introducing you to 'Buetto'...a style that could be your first important step to a 2023 style reinvention. Check out the video where I will explain it in greater detail or read on below!
Enjoy the journey!
Elliot
Introducing 'Buetto'...Step up your casual belt style in 2023
What's cool about this belt?
The diamond micro perforation on this rich supple vegetable tanned leather gives the belt a light airiness and brings the surface to life. The softly cambered edges (a new technique) add softness and sophistication.
What are my Buckle Options?
You can go ahead and use a simple prong style and let the texture of the belt do the talking. Personally, I prefer to find a buckle that shows some interplay with the leather. My 4 choices above all do this in different ways.
- The Dimple prong is simple but has a soft form and its own subtle texture. A sleek, natural partner.
- The Double C buckle with its delicate rows of Swarovski crystals again mimics the texture below and also shows how you can dress this belt up for all sorts of occasions.
- Our Interlocking Lizard design is right at home here too...sleekly aligning itself with the line of the belt whilst its own mixed surface texture harmonises with the leather below. The antique gold finish adds extra warmth.
- The look of our Laser cut horn plate buckle is enhanced by pairing with the perforated leather below. The differing textures (smooth outer, textured inner) shakes things up. It's got a western vibe in a contemporary way thanks to its gunmetal finish.
Why add to your belt collection?
You've probably got a casual unlined belt already, a go to, rugged workhorse belt. This new design is cut from the same cloth but ups the ante in the style stakes - its a belt that has all the best attributes of one of our classic unlined belts with more sophistication! You can wear it ultra casual but equally dress it up...it'll add a little 'Je ne sais quoi' to any outfit!
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A great case in point is the ubiquitous Argentinian ‘Polo’ Belt which I see wrapped around the waist of many men around London (and no doubt in other counties & countries too!). The design with its diamond style hand stitching is timeless and coming as it does in a variety of thread combinations it clearly offers something for everyone. Paired with jeans or shorts a belt like this certainly has a place in anyone’s wardrobe (and of course if you are playing Polo too!).
I think you can feel a BUT coming on here. Yes, there is one, BUT it has nothing to do with the design itself. My issue is rather with many of the people who wear these belts…not the people themselves of course as I am sure they are all very nice indeed, but more about when and where they wear these belts.
ALL the time…with EVERY outfit!
Something like this on jeans looks good...with a suit? Not so much...
I have 2 major issues to address:
1) No one belt style can work for every occasion
2) No one belt colour can work for every occasion
No one belt style can work for every occasion
Belt style is all about choosing both the right width, texture and quality of leather.
Getting the right width of belt to suit a particular trouser is very important – a little thinner (30-35mm) for a smarter trouser or wider (40mm) for a casual/smart casual trouser.
Texture is very important – a light texture whether grain or printed is ideal for a smarter look whereas something with a more pronounced texture is better for more casual situations.
Quality of leather is about the finish and look – for smarter occasions a leather with a finer grain is elegant and timeless, smooth hand burnished leathers are also perfect. Leathers with a heavier grain, texture and also thickness are inherently more casual. Lined or unlined are both good, the former a bit sleeker, the latter definitely for a casual look only.
So going back to the Polo belts – these are made of a heavy unlined leather and along with the texture provided by the handstitch they fall uniquely into casual territory. So, great with jeans and shorts if your look is low key and relaxed and you want to go for a slightly more ‘rural’ look. If you want to smarten things up at all, then these belts are not quite right – they are just not sleek or sophisticated enough.
No one belt colour can work for every occasion
Polo belts come in brown…or brown…or brown.
Nothing against brown belts but clearly with a whole host of colours in the rainbow brown is not always the answer!
The key to what we do at Elliot Rhodes is offering colour and showing our customers how to use these different colours to create stylish looks. When we started out back in 2004 our mission was to upend the traditional belt market with its lazy focus on black and brown.
So, when you wear jeans why not wear a blue belt to tonally match? If you are wearing black jeans how about a grey belt instead of just black to add some tonal contrast? Wearing tan shoes? Then a tan belt is the correct choice, brown will not cut it. Wearing white trainers? Try a white or off-white belt tone for a sporty look.
Using your belt as a colour vehicle allows you to match up with different aspects of your outfit. You can match trousers and shoes but if you are wearing a shirt with some wine tones in it – try using a burgundy belt. Green sweater? How about a rich toned green belt. Wearing a T shirt with a bit or orange in it? Then let’s go with an orange belt.
I could go on, but you get the idea.
And Finally…
We see belts as the ideal way to express your own individual sense of style and personality. Creating your own belts by choosing your leather and buckle leaves you with a style that is all your own. In the end wearing a belt that a lot of other people are also wearing will never really give you that sense of ‘Uniqueness’…
So next time you grab your Argentinian Gaucho belt – think twice – is it the right belt for the occasion? Is it the right colour? Will it enhance the outfit I am wearing? Will it make me look unique?
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Why? Simply put it makes the belt look like it is too short with the tip length looking somewhat mean relative to everything else (and can also potentially make you look like you are overweight).
These 2 belts above are of the traditional 5 hole style. The buckles are shown in the holes nearest the tip so at 10 & 12.5cm (4" & 5") respectively from the tip. See how they make the tip look short?
We now have just 3 holes on all of our belts – positioned at 15cm, 17.5cm, 20cm from the tip – or if you prefer inches 6”, 7” and 8” from the tip.
The photo below shows 3 belts buckled in the each of the 3 different holes as listed above:
If you follow the guidelines above you will be in good shape for all classic style belts. The Photo below of our Mclaren Belt shows a belt buckled up in the middle of the 3 holes which looks neat and tidy - ideal.
There are a few exceptions...
This is all about both Buckle Size/Style and also Belt Design.
Larger Buckles
If you happen to choose a belt with a larger buckle style you might want to aim to fit in the hole furthest away from the tip? Why is this? Simply put the larger buckle often covers some of the tip area and will make the belt appear shorter. So, by moving along a hole you create a better balance between buckle and tip.
The images below show a larger rectangular buckle positioned in 2 different holes - neither are wrong but you might like the feel of a slightly longer tip. The same applies in the case of the solid plate style buckle which is on the hole furthest from the tip.
Belt Style
Some belts come with specific detailing on the tip and dependent on how far this extends it may well be sensible to allow a little extra breathing space between this and the buckle. It helps show off the detail of the belt tip and gives the buckle its own space. The image below of our Silverado belt shows such a belt being worn on the last hole...
Conclusion
As a rule, I would always rather see someone wearing a belt that is a little long rather than too short. That being said, if you start venturing into territory where you are needing lots of extra holes then you really need to buy a smaller belt (or in our case pop in to have your original belt shortened!). Adding one extra hole in addition to the 3 we normally provide is fine – so at 22.5cm/9” from the tip. For casual belts this will look OK most of the time, for more formal belts I would suggest this is already starting to look a little sloppy and you should be looking to get a smaller belt.
I hope this starts you off in the right direction - but any questions feel free to ask!
]]>Well yes…but NO.
Sadly, the two stated sizes do not correlate – and this is nothing to do with belts being mis-sized but rather that Trousers and Jeans brands tend to be rather liberal with their use of measurements. The simple explanation for all of this is that Clothing brands like to flatter us and make us feel we are smaller than we are. So that pair of jeans you wear with the 34” size marked on them almost definitely does not have a waistband that measures 34”.
16 years of making belts and custom sizing customers tells us that we have all been misguided in the difference between a stated size and an actual measured size. I have served countless men for example (Ladies, you will be happy to know that Men are by far the least realistic about their size) who having chosen a belt are quick to tell me to ‘Size it to a 34” waist’ – as that is the trouser size they buy.
I can tell just by looking at the customer that if I did that the customer would find themselves in the embarrassing position of trying on the belt and it not getting close to fitting! Experience makes me suggest politely that a ‘custom fitting’ will be better and more accurate. Once done and a well sized belt provided I simply keep quiet on the actual size belt I have made. I am not here to make anyone feel bad after all – the only important thing is that the belt fits.
But…back to the subject, why do stated sizes and actual sizes diverge? The best thing is that I take myself as an example – I buy 32” waist trousers and jeans and have done so for several years. Pretty much across brands this works for me from Zara to Boss to Diesel. But what belt size do I wear? 89cm is the answer (total length 104cm) and that is without the buckle.
This means that I am wearing a 35” Waist belt (1" = 2.54cm, so 89cm = 35")
How can that be? Very simply put, if I put a tape measure around the inside of my trouser waistband the measurement comes out at almost exactly 35”. So that little tab telling me I am size 32 is lying to me and by definition you too.
So, what is the answer to buying a belt that is the correct size? As a rule of thumb with an Elliot Rhodes belt go at least one full size bigger than your stated trouser size. If you have a tape measure to hand then by all means measure the inside of your waistband for an accurate size and give that to us so that we can size accordingly. The best way however will always be to measure an existing belt that fits well and tell us what size this is!
Do be careful if buying other brands of belt as not everyone sizes in the same manner. Here at Elliot Rhodes we are aware of these sizing issues so by definition are generous with our sizes. When we give you a size 85cm belt this is the precise measurement of the leather from first hole to the end but does not include the buckle (in general this will add another 4cm or so). See this little sketch below:
Many brands include the buckle in their waist measurement, so you need to be careful with that too and for safety may need to buy a belt 2 sizes larger than your stated trouser size.
Our size charts page should also help you in your quest to find the correct belt size.
Belt Size Guide | ||
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Belt Size | Fits Waist Size (Inches) | Total belt length (not including buckle) |
80 | 28-30 | 95 |
85 | 30-32 | 100 |
90 | 32-34 | 105 |
95 | 34-36 | 110 |
100 | 36-38 | 115 |
105 | 38-40 | 120 |
110 | 40-42 | 125 |
115 | 42-44 | 130 |
120 | 44-46 | 135 |
We're always looking for interesting partnerships with people who love our belts. Michael Pickering and Georgia Lennon aka 'One Trick Pony' started out as Elliot Rhodes customers but after a long chat with the duo in-store it seemed logical that Elliot Rhodes could become integral to the contemporary image they want to bring to the Country & Western music scene.
We have been styling them with a selection of belts for the last months in preparation for their forthcoming tour, album artwork and press events - you can see below the looks we have been working on.
The couple are incredibly charming, full of passion for what they do and as far as we can tell unbelievably talented. They also have a charming Cockapoo puppy called Deacon who has been a regular at our in-store styling sessions.
They have been broadening my knowledge and appreciation of Country & Western music - something I had anyway become more and more partial to over the last years with artists like Lady A and Darius Rucker - so they now have me listening to and appreciating Luke Coombs, Carrie Underwood, Chris Stapleton to name a few...
ONE TRICK PONY are a Northern-bred, London-based, singing-songwriting, emerging UK Country Duo formed of Georgia Lennon and Michael Pickering. Having sung together for over two years now, 2020 marked the development of an exciting country journey for the new duo despite the pesky constraints of COVID-19!
‘You’re That Face’ heralded One Trick Pony’s debut music release, appearing across all major music platforms on 11th December 2020. Their original takes country influences from Rascal Flatts, Keith Urban and Kacey Musgraves to name a few, forming an upbeat, feel good, positive energy to their debut. The song details the feeling an individual has when they realise they’ve finally met the person they’ve dreamed of!
This debut single was closely followed by their follow-up single ‘Always Home’, which is imbued with a little Christmas spiritcul through jingle bells and country Christmas timbres. In our hearts we are ‘Always Home’ with the ones we love, and it’s this heartwarming spirit that drives the single.One Trick Pony worked with award-winning Tim Prottey-Jones as Producer for their debut single releases.
The duo’s sound thrives upon close harmony, upbeat rhythms and catchy melodies, taking country and pop musical influences, with recent music reviewers detailing their sound as ‘charming country goodness indeed’ with ‘exciting vocal work’.
Let me start by being saying I am an eternal optimist when it comes to retail.
In spite of the increasing shift to online shopping I remain a firm believer that there is still a place for traditional bricks & mortar stores.
This is not to say that Retail does not need to evolve, but so long as it does it will offer something that online shopping cannot...notably a personal, consultative, immersive experience that is fun, engaging and memorable.
Does this mean that retailers can justify operating as many outlets as previously? Unlikely - some retail traffic has been lost forever to the Internet so we have to accept that the landscape has changed. Consumption patterns have changed too...what people spend money on today is not what they spent it on 20 years ago, much more is spent on experiences (food, concerts, entertainment) and there is also increased awareness of our responsibility to consume more consciously and sustainably, this means quality over quantity.
That being said the stores that exist will be even better than before - they have to epitomise all that is great about an in-person experience.
Where the landscape has to change to make retail viable is in the pricing structure of traditional retail property and the relationship between landlord, tenant and the government too. Covid has accelerated the need for a rapid reassessment of how in particular city centre property is valued and a new model needs to emerge that spreads the risk fairly between all parties.
In the case of London, there is an enormous disconnect between property value and potential revenue. Ever rising rents do not correlate with reduced footfall and expenditure. Rates, the bain of a retailer's existence, is an arbitrary tax on each and every location irrespective of sales or profitability.
A new model where the risk is shared between all interested parties has to be the way forward. Seeing the swathes of empty retail locations across London is a sad sight. Covid bears some of the blame but not all, the old model was broken long before Covid arrived.
There are retailers both existing and new who would love to open stores and start the process of creating Retail 2.0 - bringing life back to our cities as well as employment.
All of this is particularly poignant for us at the moment - we are about to close one of our London stores. After 10 years our lease has ended and without a restructuring of the rental cost, review of the rates payable as well as greater flexibility in the lease, the risk of continuing is simply too great. The deck is stacked one way only at the moment.
It's a shame as we would like to have another store and we know we have a viable retail business - but we just need a fair chance of being successful to make it worth our while to take the risk. I know we are not alone.
At least we have our store in Covent Garden...for now onwards and upwards!
]]>With Brexit approaching, the UK retail industry had actually been lobbying hard over the last year for EU travellers to also become eligible for Tax Free shopping, therefore benefitting from the same advantages that International Travellers have enjoyed for many years.
Tax Free shopping acts a very clear incentive for travellers to shop whilst in the UK (receiving normally 10-15% of their purchase value back as a refund), and for many travellers this is one of the main reasons that they come to the UK in the first place. Certainly at the higher end of the spending spectrum this Tax Free incentive is a major driver of tourist expenditure. Currently tax free shopping generates some £3.5 billion of sales revenue.
Now, some genius has decided that this benefit is too 'London Centric' and should be scrapped altogether. So, at a time when the UK is trying to stand on its own two feet and compete on the global stage, we are instead disincentivizing tourists from coming here.
Clearly the whole retail industry, especially those based in the West End, are up in arms. Rightly so as we battle to survive in a city devoid of customers and life post lockdown.
Yet again, the UK is sending a message that it is not so 'Open for Business'. More importantly it seems to be that this government's focus for all future investment and growth is away from the Retail sector, seemingly forgetting how many millions of people are currently employed within it.
Yes, change is upon us, retail is evolving and being replaced in parts, but at least easing into this evolution rather than simply accelerating towards it at an even greater speed, would give time to adjust, redeploy and retrain.
Now, more than ever, we need to be opening our arms to the world - so far we seem to be better at turning our backs.
Unfortunately, the answer is not as straight forward as you might think and that is principally because I do not subscribe to the same time worn responses that most style guides will trot out. Truth be told my view on belt style in general is more nuanced and really depends on the individual, the way they wear their clothes, the specific colour tones involved and the wearer’s own particular style. My explanation below should cover most eventualities…
As a starting point if your trousers are any sort of light earthy colour (beige/tan/khaki) or even Navy Blue then wearing a black belt with brown shoes is out of the question. The black belt just does not have reason to be tonally and will look completely wrong. You should be wearing a belt that matches either the shoe or trouser tone.
If wearing denim, I would nearly always err towards matching with the shoe colour – if you are wearing a black shirt you can go with the black belt, but the choice of brown shoes would seem strange in the first place, black would make more sense.
If you are wearing black trousers and are opting to wear brown shoes with them then there needs to be a reason you are doing so in the first place. The choice to go ‘contrast’ needs to be intentional and so you need to commit to it. In essence, there must be a reason that you are pulling brown tones into your outfit, presumably you have a brown jacket or coat that is leading you in this direction or you want to add lightness to black trousers by pairing with a white shirt and a tan belt/shoe combo. If your whole outfit is black, then I am not sure there is a good reason to be adding anything brown in the first place.
The safe option if you are mixing brown and black would be to work with the shoe colour although there are caveats (see below). If you are wearing brown shoes with black trousers, then go for a brown belt in a similar tone to that of the shoes. The tone is important, if you go too far off tone then it will just look like a mismatch and really not look good. Don’t worry about the leathers being the same, in fact varying the leather textures will look nicer.
Now to the caveats…If the shoes are dark brown then this is all relatively easy as the darker tones are more harmonious with the black. The lighter the tone of the shoe then potentially the more dangerous this can be as a light tan belt on black risks being quite a vivid contrast and may look like a bit of a line across your waist. If your shirt colour is light (white, beige) then this will be fine and makes for a nice light look, but if you are going for a darker shirt it can be more problematic.
In this latter case, if you are going say with black trousers and a black shirt and pairing it with a brown toned jacket then I would be tempted to go with a black belt instead. The brown shoes and jacket link together and then the black belt will harmonize with the shirt and trousers.
Hopefully this will set you on the right track – any questions feel free to ask - email us at elliot@elliotrhodes.com, call us on +44 207 730 4000, chat with us online or come and visit us in store!
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My belt wardrobe as you can imagine is pretty extensive but each belt has its raison d'etre and I will always find a time or occasion to use each one of them.
Belts are my way of expressing myself, they add a little bit of fun or flamboyance to the simplest of outfits without being over the top. This is the message I like to give to our customers who might generally consider themselves to err more on the conservative side. I like to show them that just the smallest of details or a hint of colour is all that is needed to help them stand out (just a little) from the crowd!
For this video I pulled out just 6 belts randomly from my wardrobe (a mix of older and newer styles) and explain why I love them as well as how and where I wear them. This might just give you some style inspiration...and hopefully the confidence to experiment too.
Let us know what you think!
]]>Music surrounds us every day - wherever we go, whatever we do there tends to be a soundtrack to accompany us!
When it comes to the music we play in-store we would like to think that our eclectic choices are a continued expression of our individuality. We play music that we love, but most importantly we play music that we believe will enhance your experience in-store.
That does not mean just playing any old music at any time - far from it - choosing the right music to suit the moment and mood is quite an art form. It's funny but you can really see when you are connecting with customers as they hum, top tap and click their fingers to the various tunes.
Each time of day brings its own moods - early in the morning it might be the soothing tones of Ella Fitzgerald, Nina Simone or Aretha Franklin, as the day progresses we might move into some fun 80's tracks, Queen, Elton, Pet Shop Boys...or go more indie with The Verve, Michael Kiwanuka, Lana Del rey, Paloma Faith...when we feel the need for an energy boost we might get some Killers, Muse, Pink or Green Day...and as the day winds down some classic soul might ease us into the evening - Bobby Womack, Isaac Hayes...or maybe some mellow vibes from The XX, Vampire Weekend or Air
The key is to catch the customer vibe and match the music to suit...
To celebrate our 15 year anniversary we asked each of our senior ER staff members (Andrea, Carlos & Klaudia) to choose their 15 favourite tracks...onto which I added another 45 that we have turned to time and again since opening our doors in 2004...(A nod to fondly remembered staff such as Oliver, Emma, Yasmin & Vlakko).
You can find links to the playlists - best shuffled for a truly fun and eclectic soundtrack to your day covering the last 7 decades!
]]>As many of you will know I have a long standing passion for movie posters that started off 20 years ago when I was living in Paris...my preferred era being from the 1950's-1970's. I find the scale and scope of poster art fascinating - as many of you will know from coming in to the stores the posters that adorn the walls are vivid, striking and inspiring.
For this week I am connecting my choice of movies with both posters and still images, showing off the belt styles that prevailed in each one and giving you suggestions as to how we might help you recreate each look!
Hope you enjoy watching some of these movies - would love to hear your thoughts on them...
All the best,
For good reason our 2 most classic belt designs go by the name Bogart & Bacall..what could be more apt. The movie art is typical of the time using 3 core colours and bold typeface, it conveys the drama and tension of the movie really well. The clean crisp styling of the costumes typifies the 1940's - Bogart's pleated high waist trouser and Bacall's cinched skirt are timeless...
ER Suggestions...
Clean and simple is the way to go...neutral tones to go with the earthy colours both were wearing. For him a mottled texture is perfect for the heavier weight of trouser material and much the same for her. The mock ostrich is a bit more contemporary but with the frame style buckle you will get the same look!
The apocryphal story of Butch and Sundance and their abiding friendship is one of the classic western tales. The poster shown is actually a Polish version and one I own. Polish art from the time was extremely distinctive (being behind the iron curtain) and a whole clan of talented artists created the artwork for movie posters that looked totally different than the US or UK versions...making them very collectable. As for Newman & Redford a rugged earthy look for both that typifies western style - but interestingly a less ornate western style than often seen.
ER Suggestions...
Both characters wear classic western style belts but neither are particularly embellished or ornate. Their clothing styles are not that flamboyant and the belts are in keeping - more about function than anything else. Hence our choice of 2 of our most classic rugged belts
A classic romance set in Rome with Audrey Hepburn as the princess who escapes the strict control of her guardians and falls in love with newspaper reported Gregory Peck. A timeless classic of a movie with the wonderful scenery of Rome in the 50's to add extra romance. The poster is not the original release version but I find it more charming with the image of the 2 protagonists on the Vespa with the backdrop of the Coliseum...a little like Bogart and Bacall above the style is refined and restrained - crisp and clean.
ER Suggestions...
The costumes were very much of the time and although the film was set in Italy the look is not particularly Italian inspired. Above all the feel is elegant and restrained, typical of a time before greater flamboyance came to the fore again. Hepburn wore soft pastels in this movie and Peck more traditional tones...for her we are going to suggest something in a lighter more summery tone in Nubuck with a softly curved buckle, for him something more streamlined in Black but in a 30mm width the same as he wears in the movie.
This is the British quad poster for a movie that still resonates as much today as it did back in 1955. The struggle for the James Dean character to escape the shackles of his parents and a conformist society is unbelievably powerful and in no way feels dated - his performance is really visceral. The boldness of the poster, the contrast of yellow and red to show the different moods and even the wording, shows that this was a film destined to shock. It also shows James Dean in what is now an iconic pose. In terms of style everyone recalls James Dean in jeans with his red bomber jacket but pay attention too to his more preppy look - see how he wears a really skinny belt in the photo below, probably only 15mm wide.
ER Suggestions...
We would find it a stretch in this day and age for most men to wear a belt as skinny as the one James Dean wears above, but certainly with a higher waisted tailored trouser, pleated as above then a skinnier belt definitely works. We are seeing this styling more and more so it is a trend that will continue over the next few years and one to bring into your wardrobe. For the more casual look I guess James would have been wearing black but in a nod to his red jacket we are going to style him in this chunky dark burgundy belt...
One of my absolute favourite movies that 60 years later still brims with tension, addresses the racist undertones of society whilst being wrapped up in a doomed to fail love story...seems unbelievably current still and the dance and music is truly memorable with so many tunes from the incredible Leonard Bernstein that stand the test of time. The poster is simplistic with its focus on the structure of the wording and overlapping letters giving the sense of the New York tenement buildings around which the movie is set. Stylistically we have moved on from the clean cut 50's to a more subversive 60's - there is still a uniformity of style with great juxtaposition between the colours and tones of the 'Jets' and the 'Sharks'. Everyone wears a belt...along with the de rigeur chinos and all stars.
ER Suggestions...
Most interesting is not just that everyone wears a belt but also how they wear them - a lot of the belts are worn with buckle to the side, almost as if they were modern day holsters. I really like this look, especially in summer where the belt and buckle are more visible worn with a T Shirt...many also wear belts with studs and metal hardware on them...here are a couple of suggestions for styling...
This film is a little more modern than most in my repertoire but for its importance as a style reference it makes it into this selection. Not only did the Armani styling of Richard Gere launch Giorgio Armani globally but the role reversal of the man as escort challenged stereotypes. Of course all of this backed by the incredible soundtrack by Blondie with rock classic 'Call Me'. From a belt style perspective there are multiple reference points throughout the film...from tone on tone belt/trousers to casual weave styles.
ER Suggestions...
Greige...this was the film that launched a new men's colour palette that pervaded the 1980's..tone on tone styling to the fore. Gere was styled with all number of belts to match his never ending 'working' wardrobe...he wore a few narrower belts (25-30mm) but we will focus on the tone on tone aspect as seen in the photo above and go for this all grey affair. For Gere's more casual sport look a coloured handweave would work perfectly with his tight fitting chinos.
You may or may not be a fan of Woody Allen's movies but I have always found his neuroticism both endearing and fascinating. But Annie Hall as a movie is most famous for the ditzy Diane Keaton character and above all her take on masculine dressing which really broke down gender barriers. The poster I have shown below is not the original - that one featured both Keaton and Allen - I prefer this quite recent artistic iteration in its lithograph style for its focus on the Keaton attire and its mellow colouring.
ER Suggestions...
Diane Keaton's outfit gave the confidence to many other women to free themselves from shackles of stereotypical female dress. Sticking with that theme we have chosen a couple of belts that are at best androgynous...perfect for recreating the look. Black of course and then a more tonal Antelope suede colour for pairing with those beige trousers!
]]>In these surreal times it is hard for any of us to focus on business as usual. This is clearly not how I envisaged us celebrating our 15th Anniversary.
Over the last days, in addition to keeping an open dialogue with our own small ER team to reassure and advise them I have also been speaking with the many artisans in Italy & Spain who help us craft our belts and buckles. Our conversations rarely mention work but rather focus on the personal side with questions about the wellbeing of families, friends and staff. After 15 years of collaborating it is far more than just work that binds us together.
When it comes to business, borders do not separate us, we are all in the same boat - trying to figure out how to navigate this very uncertain time. On the continent work continues in limiting circumstances, here in London our stores are still open but we guess it is a question of when, rather than if, we will be obliged to serve you solely online.
Not that shopping or going out are top of anyone's agenda but if you do venture out or think of shopping online, please do try where possible to support smaller shops, cafes and restaurants. I can assure you that every small sale is valuable and deeply appreciated.
Most importantly all of us here wish you, your families and your friends well at this trying time.
Take good care,
]]>The clock started ticking for us at 7.30pm on Saturday 29th February leaving us just 8 days to get our Covent Garden store back and operational ready to work on Monday 9th March.
Saturday 7.30pm...last time the store would look like this...
An ambitious timeline for sure - especially as this included taking out and putting in a whole new engineered wood floor, rewiring, building a new wall...and of course to be able do this we also had to figure out what to do with all of the stock and existing display materials in what were very cramped quarters.
Astonishingly in less that 7 hours we had gotten the store emptied of stock, furniture ripped out and ready for the builders to start work on Sunday morning...
From then on whilst we beavered away downstairs with manual tasks such as refurbishing display units with polish, cleaning poles with white spirit as well as staining and recovering belt displays and repainting the staff area, the guys upstairs ripped up floor, opened up walls, rewired, built new furniture, painted and decorated...
When that was all over on Saturday we started on making it all pretty again - reinstalling displays, hand finishing our new cash desk and coffee counter with special rust effect paint (a 4 stage, 24 hours process!), hanging over 15 posters and 4 mirrors...and of course cleaning (again and again and again).
Thanks to the building team and all of our ER team (with special mention to Andrea) who have worked tirelessly to deliver this project on time. As for me, lots of aches, cuts, bumps and paint spattered clothes - but a sense of great satisfaction at seeing my conceptual design come to life and our beloved store transformed, refreshed and ready for the next 15 years!
All the best,
Justin
Day 1...Store gutted...a damn mess but floor coming up and wall being constructed
Day 2 begins...
Day 3...a little neater
Day 4...new floor and some colour...
Day 5 - Furniture construction
Day 6 - wrapping the new furniture with Lincrusta textured linseed paper
Day 7 - Display poles back up, exotic wires up, first paint layer onto the desks
D
Day 8 - Rust paint onto desks, pictures going up...
Day 8 - Rust effect taking effect on desks...
Day 9...Back in Business
Now we can focus on doing what we do best - helping you find amazing belts and have a great time in the process!
Check out our latest arrivals here....
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Entrepreneurs are risk takers by nature. Inherent in the DNA of everyone who has ever launched their own business is a healthy appetite for risk that is if anything skewed towards the over optimistic.
Entrepreneurs dream of success, of bringing new products and services to the market, of changing the status quo, of making a difference.
So entrepreneurs can be seen to share some traits with gamblers – the hard facts which tell us that 9 out of 10 new businesses will fail within the first year, is a sobering testament to this – yet Entrepreneurs differ from gamblers in that they are rarely foolish, most will have done a good deal of research, weighed up the pros and cons and crunched a lot of numbers before finally taking the plunge and bringing their idea to market.
But Entrepreneurs, like gamblers, have to feel they have a chance of winning, if not the jackpot then at least having the modicum of success that will allow them to keep their heads above water, pay the bills and have a little left over to not only pay themselves a reasonable salary but also to leave the business in a healthy state with a fair (let’s say 10%) level of profit. Profit, after all, is the real motivation for any Entrepreneur, the accumulation of profit in the medium to long term is the real goal, it’s that extra financial reward that an Entrepreneur strives for to help counterbalance the additional risk and stress that comes with owning and running one’s own business.
So, what happens when you look at the odds and feel that they are just too steeply stacked against you? In most cases an Entrepeneur will (in spite of their proclivity to risk) make the rational decision to step away. If the risk is just too much, when the chances of success are too slim, only the rarest of entrepreneur will still take the plunge. Clearly there are cases of Entrepreneurs that should have shied away but did not and have since gone on to create hugely successful businesses, but these are the exceptions.
So how does this meandering riff on entrepreneurialism relate to the topic of retail? Well, firstly we need to accept that the accelerating decline of the retail sector can be directly correlated to a variety of factors that have in less than 10 years changed the retail landscape; the sector’s rising costs, competition from online shopping, a shift away from consumerism towards sustainability, the boom in eating both out and in, the preference for experiences over hard goods.
Secondly, we need to be honest and say that there are many businesses which would have naturally fallen by the wayside irrespective of these shifts. Retail businesses fail…they always have, maybe because an offer that once was strong has now weakened, maybe because the offer was simply never good enough or maybe simply because tastes evolve, and consumers move on. Staying relevant has never been easy.
The real cause for concern however is that in the past where one retail business would wither only to be replaced by another, there are now no replacements. Empty stores remain empty, once thriving streets become progressively devoid of stores and the more they do so, the less appealing they become to the consumer.
So, we have to ask ourselves why the retail sector has become such an unappealing proposition to the entrepreneur? Of course, it is easy to say that the greater potential rewards on offer from growth sectors such as technology or sustainability make the retail sector less financially attractive. It is also possible to consider retail as a means of distribution ‘old school’ and past its sell by date.
But I think to settle for this misses the point, retail itself remains an attractive proposition to the consumer, human beings do still enjoy the physical experience of retail environments, the tactile interaction with products and above all the pleasure of human interaction with both other consumers as well as sales staff.
The challenge that faces the sector is to once again make it an attractive proposition to the Entrepreneur. To make this happen something fundamental has to happen – the numbers have to start to add up again.
Online shopping is part and parcel of life now, retail will never have the market share it once did, but even at 70% of what it once was (and we are still currently at around 85%) that is still significant. The competition for consumer expenditure from the rest of the lifestyle sector – food, travel, technology, health & wellbeing – is established too, consumers clearly have a lot of other ways to spend money so even rising disposable income will not flow directly into retailers pockets.
So, let’s accept that revenues will never be in real terms what they were in 2005. Let’s accept that 65-70% of that number is now a good result.
Let’s focus instead on what needs to change on the other side – the cost side. With revised revenue aspirations should we not be seeing a revised cost base as well that reflects this new reality?
The retail sector like others has had to bear the rising cost of employment, but in the UK there are two key fixed elements in the retail cost mix that impose themselves disproportionately onto retailers - Rent & Business Rates.
Both of these have risen inexorably in line with the unprecedented increase in property values across the UK over the last 25 years. Whilst the pre-crisis, pre-online, pre-Brexit, credit fueled music was still playing retail was able to keep up with this – but the music has now most definitely stopped and retail is left carrying a most undesirable, unsustainable, toxic package.
The majority of Landlords seem to be hanging on to the past in a trancelike state, imagining that the wave of demand will shortly return with premiums abounding and bidding wars a daily occurence. Rather sit with overpriced, empty stores than risk breaking their rental structure. The result – supply but no demand. Sorry to burst your bubble dear Landlords but until there is a closer relationship between retailers and landlords where both risk and reward are shared more fairly your shops will sit empty. It’s time to dispose of burdensome high rents and work on a more balanced rent/commission structure with more of a collaborative feel to it. Why not find ways to further encourage landlords to take more risk and encourage collaboration, perhaps as an idea providing them with some form of tax relief for renting to start-up businesses.
As for business rates these are a structured form of taxation stuck in a time warp so utterly disconnected from reality as to be absurd. A tax that always felt punitive and if anything, anti capitalistic has now been supercharged and imposed arbitrarily on a single industry sector that if anything needs resuscitation? A tax charged for existing rather than on success cannot be healthy. Business rates do not in any way reflect the realities of a changing world but instead hark back to a distant unrelated past. The annual rent for a 1500 sqm warehouse in Leicester is about the same as for a 45 sqm store in the West End, and the warehouse if anything pays lower business rates. Yet which of the two has greater revenue potential – a global online business operating out of said warehouse or the retail store limited by its floorspace? How many retail stores would be necessary to achieve the same revenue, with each of these stores having its share of Business Rates to pay? The burden of business rates needs to be abolished or at best reduced to something nominal. The government needs to look more broadly across the business sector to generate its revenues rather than targeting the easy, static retail sector that can simply bear no more. Let’s focus on letting businesses be profitable first – corporation tax is there to take its share of success.
It may seem that these changes are impossible, too dramatic or cannot happen fast enough. My sincerest feeling is that much like climate change if the protagonists in this saga keep denying the inevitable it will be too late. Now is the time to act, things are bad but not yet critical, we have a window to reverse the tide, but it is small.
All that potential retail entrepreneurs need is a feeling that they can make it, that they can run the numbers and think once again there is a chance (not a guarantee, but at least a good gamblers chance) of making a new retail business profitable. Time to roll the dice…
With each passing week I have been irked by my silence on all things Brexit. I know that my weighing in on the subject is not the same as some multinational like Airbus doing so but perhaps as the owner of a smaller business my views may resonate more easily with many of you.
I graduated in 1993 at a time when our future as a generation was pointed towards Europe – I avidly studied French and Spanish and like many of my friends took advantage of working and studying abroad. The experience, improved language skills and social integration was our gain, any money earned staying in the pubs and bars we frequented along the way.
I recently stumbled upon a pile of letters written from friends made during the summer of 1992 whilst working at EuroDisney. Apart from the nostalgia actual written letters brought upon me I was amazed at just how many I had and above all by the variety of European countries they came from.
As years have gone by this social integration has continued, not just through marriage but also with the flow of family and friends across borders.
Then in 2004 came Elliot Rhodes, a business that in its small way is a microcosm displaying the integrated and intertwined nature of countries, people and culture. Creating the belts and buckles we devote our life to revolves around relationships with tanneries, artisans and craftspeople in Spain, Italy and beyond. Our clients can be found around the world from East to West. Our stores have always had an eclectic mix of staff that I refer to as being much like the ‘United Colours of Benetton’ – French, Spanish, Greek, Estonian, Polish, Romanian, Hungarian, Italian, Croatian, British….this happy melting pot of diverse talents has always represented all that is great about living in the UK.
So, what does Brexit mean in reality for Elliot Rhodes? Simply put it will erect barriers, it will add costs, it will increase administration, it will create delays, it will take away the ease and flexibility with which we do business both in Europe and Globally. These are not mythical barriers, they are very real, and we will have to deal with and absorb them all along with the consequences. It has already changed the way I believe I am perceived as a UK national both visiting and working in Continental Europe, for now surmountable but will that perception over time manifest itself in other ways as we detach ourselves more permanently. How will a British business or buisnessman be perceived, will we just be seen as difficult and closed minded?
As I listen to the views expressed in Parliament I wish for once I could hear from an MP who had run a business, known how hard it is to survive let alone thrive. For those that espouse the theory that ‘everything will be alright’ – my question is when and based on what evidence? It is over 10 years since the financial crisis when every day has been fraught with fear of the unknown and progress has been hard won. Do we now have to endure 10 more years of the unknown, of yet more turbulence and uncertainty?
The press will focus on large companies and the impact on them with the government itself often quick to provide special exemptions to avoid headline grabbing closures or job losses – but it is the smaller companies like ours that keep tax revenue flowing, who pay business rates, who employ people, who drive the economy forward with innovation and passion. They cannot afford Brexit contingency plans and complex corporate structures, they do not have the deep pockets to easily weather the storm.
But mine is not the classic Remainer economic fear rhetoric as I feel just as strongly about the social impact this will have on our country and the sense of isolationism this promotes. There are many ills that weigh on our society and I certainly do not believe the EU is the answer to everything, but for now this is what we have and we should strive to make the best of it from within, devoting time to finding solutions to the real problems that beset us such as wealth distribution, crime, education and poverty. These are problems that need time, money and energy and leaving the EU will not bring us any closer to solving them. The time elapsed since June 2016 has already done nothing but wastefully distract our attention and resources.
I am proudly British but also proudly European, in this time of globalisation these two monikers should not be mutually exclusive. I hope that in this critical political week our parliament will finally see sense and let the people revisit the decision taken based upon misinformation and propaganda, this time armed with a better understanding of what a Brexit induced future really means.
]]>If only I had a penny for every time a gentleman came into one of our stores with one of these classic statements…
‘You can wear any belt with your Jeans right? ‘
‘I’ve got a belt I wear for work can’t I use that with my Jeans?’
‘Surely, I can use my favourite Jeans belt with all of my different Jeans?’
Well…the answer sadly is no, not really! Back in the 1870’s when Levi Strauss started using Denim fabric to create hard wearing workwear trousers for miners and cowboys things were nice and simple, a sturdy leather belt was all that was needed.
Nowadays, Jeans (or Denim) can mean any number of things and be worn in any number of ways from simple workwear to high fashion.
But that’s not to say that choosing your Jeans belt has to be a complicated affair. There are a really only 2 simple decisions to be made to ensure that you end up with the belt that is right for you.
In a nutshell there is one ideal width for almost all Men’s Jeans and that is 40mm – it is a width that feels substantial, matches well with the weight of the fabric and properly fills the belt loops so that the belt stays nicely positioned on your waist.
Here are 7 different belt categories for you to choose from - see which one is right for you...
If you need a rugged everyday belt that can be worn with casual jeans and withstand the rigours of constant daily use with plenty of movement and pressure put upon it, whilst at the same time not showing overt signs of wear and tear, then a chunky belt made of vegetable tanned leather will be ideal. This type of leather is soft but really durable and due to the tanning process has natural characteristics that will actually make it mature and gain character over time. Belt like this are generally unstitched and approximately 3.8mm thick.
You want a belt that you can dress down for everyday Jeans and occasional more rugged use but would also like it to be used for slightly smarter occasions too when you are wearing a more tailored type of jeans. You can consider one of the ‘Workhorse’ belts mentioned above but my preference to achieve a smarter urban look would be for a belt with a stitched edge made with a smooth or gently tumbled leather and potentially finished with a little subtle detailing. This sort of style will be a little sleeker and look more constructed which will give a generally neater smarter appearance.
You like your Jeans smart and structured and generally wear them with a smarter shoe, a tailored shirt and maybe even a jacket. For this you need a belt that is sleek and not too fussy. I would always go for one with a stitched edge and would err towards a leather with a higher shine or one with subtle surface texture. A burnished leather with a little two-tone effect can also work well to add a little depth and richness of tone.
Suede belts seem to be a natural bedfellow for both casual and smarter Jeans and work especially well if you are a fan of suede shoes and boots. Darker tones such as black, brown and navy can cross from daywear to eveningwear whereas colours such as Grey, Tan or Beige can be ideal for a sportier look and work very well with more casual footwear. Choose a classic stitched edge style or look for one with a little contrast detail to add extra zest.
Picking up where the ‘Smart One’ left off this type of belt is a step forward for the man who likes something a little more contemporary in feel with more of a design element. This type of belt will sit well with smarter more tailored jeans but it is designed to make a little bit more of a statement without being flashy. This sort of belt will be one with a more evident surface texture, potentially with some two-tone effect or perhaps have more of a sleek handcrafted feel to it. In each case the leather needs a little shine to give it sharpness.
Sometimes your jeans just need bringing to life – whether you are wearing a more casual style of denim paired with sportier footwear (particularly in summer time) or a smarter style with an outfit that needs livening up, a contrasting, colourful belt can be all you need to make an outfit complete. Colourful can mean brights like yellow and orange, but in winter time darker tones like Burgundy and Olive will also do the job.
If you are a lover of high-end denim then I have no doubt that you will have one or more pairs of Jacob Cohen jeans tucked away in your closet. You will no doubt be aware that the little patch on the back is made of ‘Pony Hair’ (hair on cowhide) which is where a belt made of the same can be the perfect companion. Frankly, even if you haven’t taken a small mortgage to buy your Jeans you should definitely consider a Pony hair belt as an option for a fun and different type of Jeans Belt. It can give quite a slick look to denim and the textures work well together. Good for casual and smarter looks, wears well but not a good choice if you need a ‘Workhorse’ or plan to wear it every day!
I hope this guide sets you off in the right direction - of course if you need any help or assistance just call us on +44 207 730 4000 or send an email to elliot@elliotrhodes.com and we will be happy to guide you further - it's what we love doing!
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Stage 1
After days of layering, varnishing and drying (24 hours per layer) we have sheets of appropriately thick carbon fibre material that we can now be digitally cut to shape with a CNC cutter.
Go more casual pairing them with a croc effect belt or maybe something unlined?
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Now I know everyone likes clearly defined fashion rules, one that are easy to follow without any ambiguity or risk of misinterpretation…
When it comes to wearing belts there are some obvious right and wrongs but personally I would prefer to give you more latitude rather than tieing you up in knots with time honoured protocol.
When it comes to choosing a belt (and I guess this could also apply to your overall dress style) to my mind you have 3 main factors to consider, and these apply equally to both men and women:
The world we live in nowadays is a lot more relaxed than it was in times past. Rigidity and formality are becoming things of the past, what would have been unthinkable 20 years ago is now perfectly acceptable. But this does not mean ignoring the type of occasion you are going to and completely flouting all etiquette, what it does mean is that your choices are wider than they were and the opportunity for self-expression much greater.
Occasion – Where am I going?
A little planning and foresight will set you on the right path here. Give some thought to the place you are going to, the people you will be there with and the way you want to feel when you are there. Your outfit is an extension of your persona and tells people a lot about you before you have even opened your mouth to speak.
If you know it is going to be a smarter occasion then I would always err towards being slightly overdressed. By the same token don’t overdo it for a trip to the pub! Plus or minus 20% in the style stakes is going to be fine – you just don’t want to be way off target, that could easily be perceived as either a propensity for attention seeking or potentially a lack of respect for the occasion.
Do take into account the physical environment you are going to be in as well – warm earthy tones and natural feeling buckles are lovely in autumn or when in the countryside, a more monochrome look will work for urban evenings whilst on the other hand summer days by the sea just ask for light airy tones of both leather and buckle.
Colour – What to Match up with?
If you are feeling like playing it safe, then I feel that tonal is the way to go. Matching your belt colour to tonally work with your outfit is always stylish, and in many ways a more contemporary way to go. For women you of course have a plethora of options if you want to bring in colour but be careful of overdoing the colour matching. If you want to make your belt the centrepiece of your outfit then by all means use it as a colour vehicle, but maybe then keep the bag or shoes more neutral. For men, colour matching your belt to your shoes can be great but make sure the tones really do work together (they don’t have to match but they do have to live together). If in doubt match your belt to your trousers/suit, for denim you will never go far wrong with a navy belt. If the occasion is more relaxed then go ahead and use your belt as a colour vehicle, match it up to your shirt or watch strap or if your outfit is more neutral (black/white/denim/khaki) then just let your belt be a solitary jolt of colour. In summer especially a coloured belt on white or pale trousers is perfect,
Style – Design and Detail, but how much?
Let’s start with the leather – a belt made from a chunky unlined leather is never going to be suitable for a smarter occasion, the weight and feel of the leather will not work with the feel of your outfit. On the flipside this type of leather is ideal for a more casual occasion.
For smarter occasions a belt with a subtle grain is great, a light printed texture is also fine. A little tonality in the leather will work nicely but nothing with an overt contrast.
If the occasion demands something a little smarter – say an evening event or important work meeting, you still need to dress ‘up’ for the occasion and show you have made an effort. Now is probably not the moment to express an excess of flamboyance, so perhaps keep the look neutral and elegant with a belt that has subtle detail at most (a little stitch detail, or contrast texture are fine) and then choose a buckle that shows attention to detail through small design elements.
For men a belt that tones in with the colour of your clothing makes sense and is actually safer than trying to match your shoes unless the match is well managed. For women toning in is the safe bet but if you want to add a little colour go with a narrow or skinny belt so that the belt does not overwhelm from the rest of your outfit. Less as they say can be more.
If the occasion is a little more light-hearted then now is a great time to have some fun – once we move into ‘smart-casual’ territory you can have fun with both belt and buckle. Even a fairly low-key outfit can be jazzed up with a cool belt, perhaps something with studs, stitch detail, distinctive texture or stronger contrast tones. In actual fact the more your outfit is low-key the more I think you can go for it with your belt.
If it is truly party-time then all bets are off – now is the time to free yourself from any shackles of conformity with a belt you love that expresses whatever you want it to!
]]>When our customers come in store they are often surprised at the number of different widths of belts we offer. The fact is that we start at thin 15mm width belts and go all the way upto 60mm width belts, most of the time in 5mm increments with each width having its own specific purpose.
Luckily for men life is not as complex as it is for women - there are really just 3 widths to focus on and each have their own raison d'etre. I'll give you a brief guide to what I think works best and hope that this will help you in the process of choosing your next belt.
For me the 30mm width belt has two purposes - first and foremost it falls into the category of formal. For those occasions when you really want something slim and discreet this is the width for you. Most of the men's belts in this width as a result are fairly simple in style with a focus on elegant leather and occasionally some subtle detail.
In the past a lot of men considered this the default width to go to for a formal belt, irrespective of their waist size and build. I would beg to differ as I often feel that it looks a little too thin on anyone of a certain size and stature. In reality a belt of this width on a larger man, let's say 34" waist or above, just tends to look a little mean. If you are perhaps a few pounds heavier than your perfect weight this can also exacerbate things, with the belt looking like it is cutting into your stomach. In which case head for the 35mm width.
Which brings me to the second category - the 30mm belt as a more trendy item. This for me is really all about the stature and clothing style of the person wearing it. If you are on the slim side, like slimmer cut trousers and suits, then this width will look good on you. This could either be in a formal capacity or a more trendy capacity with the use of colour and texture.
The 35mm width is one which I believe to be the default width to turn to for men's classic or casual wear. This width works very nicely with formal wear and the buckle collection that goes with it has plenty of discreet options to choose from. My preference for this width is predominantly guided by most men's size and stature. The average man is a 34-36" waist size and I just like the way this width of belt looks on a man. It looks substantial without being chunky, it has the nice feeling when worn of properly supporting your trousers and filling the belt loops and also, because of its width means the belt buckle is just that little wider which I feel suits most men better.
In terms of detailing, if you are looking for something a little more contemporary then this width is also a suitably sized canvas to show off some subtle style - perforations, shoe inspired detailing, brush off leathers....
Which leads me onto the more casual nature of this width and its versatility. Although I would not advocate this width as the perfect width for jeans, it is a width that can easily cross the boundary between formal and casual. The width is substantial enough to not look out of place on denim or heavier fabric trousers (e.g. corduroy), and looks great on chino style trousers, so your belt can cross nicely from work to play. I particularly like this width for smart denim, especially of the more fitted nature.
The 40mm width is one that many people are just not aware of. In truth if you go shopping you will not find any particular choice in this width other than perhaps the odd simple jeans belt. The reality is that this is the perfect width for wearing with your jeans and with nearly all casual trousers. Worn with denim not only does it nicely fill the deep belt loops but also most importantly the width both looks and feels in keeping with the style and weight of the fabric. The same applies for almost all casual trousers as nowadays these also tend to have fairly deep loops. Above all we just like the way a 40mm width belt feels around the waist - it is substantial without being chunky, really shows off the texture of the leather and any specific style detailing and gives you scope to wear either a classic or more substantial buckle style.
Obviously the type of leather in this width will define how smart or casual the belt is - a chunky unlined leather inherently is for more informal wear whereas perhaps a finer grain leather would be more suitable for smarter occasions.
Personally, and subject to my comment above on the type of leather, I use this width for almost all but the most formal of occasions - it is really versatile, a great canvas for all sorts of buckles and also importantly gives that really nice feeling of a belt that is properly holding up your trousers.
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When it comes to design we are always looking to push boundaries and experiment. We can only progress and learn if we look to expand our horizons, do things differently and take risks.
Our latest design concept started as an idea one day when I was sat in a tailor looking at a bolt of traditional Tweed fabric. There is something both quintessentially British and also timeless about fabric that has been woven on these Isles since the early 19th Century. A fabric that started life as a practical, moisture resistant durable solution ideally suited to outdoor countrywear morphed over time into a staple of mainstream fashion.
So, the question was whether we could harness the aesthetic properties of this fabric and its traditional connotations and create something contemporary that would work in our world of belts and make a statement. We started by choosing 3 colours of world famous Harris Herringbone tweed, woven as it has always been in the Hebrides on the west coast of Scotland.
We then came up with 2 styles that we feel really act as a blend between tradition and modernity.
Our Coppola style comes in a 30mmwidth and is made with a tubular construction which means that it has just a single seam with tweed front and back and a contemporary angled tip. We placed leather in the tip area for both design and reinforcement purposes.
This style is ideal for both men and women – for women looking to channel this season’s masculine aesthetic it is ideal whether with trousers, a skirt or cinching in a jacket or coat. For men on slimmer trousers the contrast in texture on cotton or twill trousers will be really sharp.
Our Coltrane style in a 40mm width, with its layered construction is tried and tested. We felt that the mix of the Herringbone Tweed with hand burnished Saffiano edging would be the perfect complementary mix both aesthetically as well as in terms of weight and feel.
It’s a little heavier in style, shows lovely craftsmanship and would be a great way to add an alternative look and feel to denim or any type of trouser. Ideal for men but for women a style that you could definitely use over jackets or heavier constructed fabrics.
We feel that both styles really set a new design standard, will throw in an additional texture to your outfit and give you a contemporary heritage look. I have no doubt that if you add one to your collection it will most certainly grab a little attention!
Our Harris Tweed belt collection is now in store (25/09/17)
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A shot to put our Performance Belts in their correct context
Great Denim Deserves a Great Belt...the Theme continues...
Suspended Animation...
It's a Belt Duel!
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